Recently a buddy of mine brought myself and two of my surf family to a new spot. This place was picturesque. When we arrived the winds were light and northerly which is perfect offshore for this spot. Yea the place was going off about shoulder to head high and had great shape. This was the first time that I was going to surf this place so there was an element of anticipation and fear of the unknown. We got suited up in no time.
The scenery was amazing the cliffs that surrounded us were to a smaller scale of the Cliffs of Moher where the local boys are towing into some hollow, gnarly bombs. It was nice to have an idea to a smaller scale of what those boys have facing them with waves the size of a house chasing them. To access the spot we had to climb down the side of a cliff holding your board in one hand and using the other to balance. At this stage I was on fire and ready to hit the water.
We paddled out to the line up it was clean and glassy. I sat on the shoulder for a couple to check it out. Once I was comfortable I moved into the peak and pulled into the first wave of the day. As I popped up and started down the line the wave got hollow and my board left the water for a split second to the next level and I finished it off with one or two re-entries. “Stoked” What an adrenalin rush!! That was insane! I wanted another straight away. After that, things started to go good the waves got better and better as the tide pushed in.
The guys started dropping into some serious waves after catching a few waves paddling back out through the channel I was cheering on Eimh, Ben and Stewert. Stewert was enjoying himself on his Shallow Reef 9’0” and made some great drops. Eimhin my wing man sitting deep as always was impressive once again. You got to watch out for this guy because he nearly always makes the section. Ben, yea class, just made it look easy sitting in the pocket and pulling off some nice cutbacks and re-entries. Yea this place was cranking.
We were in the water for about two and a half hours. It’s got to be up there with my best sessions ever had. We had it all to ourselves just four of us in the water. As I paddled back out to the break as it was walling up it looked like something from Indo as the sets pealed away into the cove. The word perfection was all I could think of. We could have been anywhere now that I think of it but I think the 5-6ml booties and the hooded winter suits were a give away for Ireland.
We all caught some good waves that we could describe and even act out to each other in detail on the way home. You know the way it is!!!!
Yea good session in all from start to finish. I am looking forward to the next one already.
When I think of it surfing brings you so many friends all chasing the same thing “that perfect wave”. It is a good circle to be part of. I am lucky to have my buddies with me while we explore these different places.
 |
|
 |
| Waves Roll off the Cliffs |
|
Surfing in Co. Clare, Ireland |